Nike Air Max 90: Tinker Hatfield's cult running silhouette since 1990

Step into the world of the Nike Air Max 90, the running silhouette designed by Tinker Hatfield in 1990 (also designer of the Air Max 1 1987 and Air Jordan 3) that has become one of Nike's most iconic and durable sneakers. With its enlarged visible Air Max cushioning, its multi-layer mesh / suede / grained leather upper, and its signature "Infrared" palette, the AM90 is today an absolute pillar of running heritage and lifestyle streetwear. MTHOR brings together more than 155 authenticated Air Max 90 references — OG colourways Infrared, Hyperfuse, Hemp, plus Off-White, Patta, Travis Scott collabs. Every pair passes through our authentication experts before shipping with the MTHOR seal worldwide.

The story of an icon: Tinker Hatfield 1990, Infrared, and the second Air Max wave

The Air Max 90 adventure begins in 1990 when Tinker Hatfield, off the resounding success of the Air Max 1 launched 3 years earlier, unveils the second Air Max silhouette. Initially called "Air Max III", it would be renamed "Air Max 90" in the 2000s in tribute to its launch year. The AM90 introduces an enlarged visible Air unit compared to the AM1 (wider, more protruding), and a multi-layer upper with overlaid plastic stripes giving the silhouette its instantly recognisable look.

The founding "Infrared" colourway (White / Cement Grey / Black / Infrared) launched in 1990 remains the signature absolute — regularly re-released by Nike for 25 years, the Infrared red on the heel has become an iconic visual marker. The AM90 explodes in the 2000s-2010s with the European Air Max wave (UK, France, Netherlands, Germany) — like the TN, it becomes a pillar of European sneaker culture. On the collaborations side, cult drops have marked the sneaker game: Off-White x Air Max 90 (2017, in Virgil Abloh's "The Ten"), Patta x Air Max 90 "Homegrown" and "Black Pack", Atmos x Air Max 90 Elephant, Cactus Plant Flea Market x Air Max 90, SP DNCH (in partnership with Don C). Recent drops AM90 Hyperfuse, AM90 Premium, AM90 Surplus, AM90 Recraft keep the silhouette at the top of Nike running heritage sales.

A unique technology: enlarged visible Air Max, sculpted mesh, waffle outsole

At the core of the Air Max 90 sit three technical features defining the silhouette. First, the enlarged visible Air unit at the heel (wider than on AM1 and more protruding) offering exceptional cushioning and a strong visual signature. Second, the multi-layer upper mixing breathable mesh, premium suede, grained leather and plastic inserts with its characteristic overlaid stripes. Third, the rubber outsole with waffle pattern inherited from the Cortez 1972 ensuring grip on all urban surfaces and light running.

Three clear benefits: (1) premium running heritage cushioning with signature Air Max, (2) timeless design traversing trends (the AM90 Infrared 1990 stays cool in 2025), (3) European cultural status — the AM90 has become with the TN one of the most tribal sneakers in European banlieue and hip-hop culture.

The standout colourways of the Nike Air Max 90 collection

The Nike Air Max 90 collection at MTHOR covers all cult drops. On the OG classics side, you'll find: Infrared (the founding 1990 colourway), Hemp, Cement Grey, Hyperfuse, Triple White, Triple Black, Wolf Grey. On the contemporary drops side: AM90 Surplus, AM90 Recraft, AM90 Premium Vintage, AM90 Futura.

On the collaborations side: Off-White x Air Max 90 "Black" (Virgil Abloh, "The Ten" 2017), Off-White x Air Max 90 Desert Ore (2019), Patta x Air Max 90 "Homegrown" and "Black Pack" (annual Patta collab), Atmos x Air Max 90 Elephant (the AJ3 motif crossover), Cactus Plant Flea Market x Air Max 90 (the Cynthia Lu smiley collab), Don C x Air Max 90 SP, DNCH x Air Max 90. An exhaustive coverage making MTHOR the authenticated Air Max 90 reference in France.

Why buy your Nike Air Max 90 at MTHOR

MTHOR Shop specialises in the sale of authenticated sneakers. Every pair in our Nike Air Max 90 collection goes through a rigorous quality control: Nike box / size label consistency, mesh, suede, grained leather quality, side Swoosh precision, enlarged visible Air unit at the heel (transparency, integrity), characteristic waffle outsole. For Off-White, Patta, Travis Scott, CPFM ultra-coveted collabs: UV lamp and microscope. Every order ships with an MTHOR seal. Learn more about our authentication process.

We offer worldwide signed-for home delivery in 2 to 8 days, real-time tracking via email/WhatsApp, 4x interest-free payment via Klarna or Scalapay, France-based customer service Monday to Friday 9am-6pm, 14-day return. No customs fees on your end.

FAQ — Nike Air Max 90 at MTHOR

How can I verify the authenticity of a Nike Air Max 90?

Every pair is authenticated by our team: (1) the Nike box with exact side sticker, (2) the inner label with official barcode, (3) material quality (mesh, suede, grained leather), (4) the side Swoosh at normed dimensions, (5) the enlarged visible Air unit at the heel (transparency, integrity), (6) the waffle outsole with Nike pattern. For Off-White, Patta, Travis Scott collabs: UV lamp and microscope. Full details here.

What size should I pick for an Air Max 90?

The Nike Air Max 90 fits true to your usual Nike size. If you have other Nike (AF1, Dunk, Air Jordan), stick to the same size. For wide feet, take half a size larger. For Off-White collabs which fit slightly large, take half a size smaller.

Which Air Max 90 is the most coveted?

The AM90 Off-White Black remains the most collector collab (resale 1,200-2,000 €). The Patta x AM90 Homegrown and Atmos Elephant are also ultra-coveted. On the OG classics side: the Infrared 30th Anniversary, Hemp, Cement Grey dominate.

What's the difference between AM90 OG, Hyperfuse, Recraft?

The AM90 OG is the original 1990 version with multi-layer mesh/suede construction. The AM90 Hyperfuse (2010s) uses a single-layer thermo-fused upper for increased lightness. The AM90 Recraft (2020s) brings back the OG in recycled construction.

What box does my pair ship with?

Original Nike box with Air Max 90 marking. For collabs (Off-White, Patta, Travis Scott, CPFM), dedicated packaging with signature hangtags.

What's the delivery time?

Worldwide signed-for home delivery in 2-8 days, real-time tracking via email/WhatsApp.

Will I have to pay customs fees?

No, you won't pay any customs fees.

Can I return my pair?

Yes. 14 days from receipt in original condition.

Going further

Discover also our Nike Sneakers, Nike Air Max 1, Nike Air Max 95 and Nike Air Max Plus TN collections. To learn everything about quality, check out our authentication process.